If you’ve ever watched a Calathea, you’ve probably noticed it doesn’t sit still. These tropical houseplants are famous for their stunningly patterned leaves and a unique daily movement that makes them feel truly alive. They're often called prayer plants for the way their leaves rise in the evening and lower again in the morning, creating a subtle, living rhythm in your home.
An Introduction to Calathea Plants
There's something special about Calatheas. They bring more than just a splash of green to a room; they bring movement and personality. With their dramatic leaf patterns and this fascinating daily routine, it's no wonder they've become a standout in so many indoor plant collections.
Their common name, "prayer plant," comes from the way they fold their leaves upward at night, almost like hands in prayer. This isn't just a quirky habit—it's a beautiful, natural behaviour that sets them apart.
Why Do Calatheas Move?
This mesmerising movement has a scientific name: nyctinasty. It’s the plant's natural response to the cycle of day and night. Think of it as an internal clock, helping the plant shift its leaves to capture the best light during the day while conserving energy when it's dark. This is one of the main reasons owning a Calathea feels like you're caring for a responsive piece of living art.
From Calathea to Goeppertia
You might hear botanists and serious plant collectors refer to Calatheas by a new name. Recently, most species in this family were reclassified into the Goeppertia genus. While it's a big deal in the scientific community, it doesn't change a thing about how you care for your plant.
The good news for all of us is that whether you call it a Calathea or a Goeppertia, its needs stay exactly the same. The "prayer plant" you know and love still needs the same light, water, and humidity.
A Kiwi Favourite for Good Reason
Calatheas have become incredibly popular across New Zealand, and it's easy to see why. Not only are they one of the most effective air-purifying plants, but their tolerance for lower light conditions makes them a perfect fit for many Kiwi homes. They bring that lush, tropical vibe to spots where other plants might not thrive.
In fact, demand for Calatheas has surged, with data showing a 285% increase in sales between 2021 and 2026. Here at Jungle Story, these varieties accounted for 18% of all our tropical houseplant sales last year.
A recent survey found that 72% of Auckland homeowners picked Calatheas as their top choice for adding life to low-light indoor spaces. This trend even shows up in gifting, where our kokedama arrangements saw a 40% spike in sales over the last holiday season. You can learn more about these kinds of botanical reclassifications over at Foliage Factory.
Choosing Your Perfect Calathea Variety
With so many stunning options, picking the right Calathea can feel a bit like choosing a piece of art. Each variety has its own distinct personality, bringing unique patterns, colours, and textures that can completely transform a space. This guide will walk you through some of the most-loved Calathea available here in New Zealand, helping you find the perfect green companion for your home.
Think of it as a curated gallery tour. We’ll look at the visual appeal and specific quirks of the stars of the show, giving you a real feel for what it’s like to live with each one.
To help you decide, we've put together a quick comparison of our most popular varieties.
Popular Calathea Varieties at a Glance
| Common Name | Botanical Name | Key Feature | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Orbifolia | Goeppertia orbifolia | Large, round leaves with silver stripes | Making a lush statement in a spacious spot |
| Peacock Plant | Goeppertia makoyana | Feather-like patterns, purple undersides | A vibrant, eye-catching display on a shelf |
| Rattlesnake Plant | Goeppertia insignis | Wavy, spear-shaped leaves with spots | Beginners looking for a more forgiving Calathea |
| Pinstripe Calathea | Goeppertia ornata | Dark leaves with fine pink or white lines | An elegant, artistic touch on a side table |
This table gives you a starting point, but let’s dive a little deeper into what makes each one special.
The Statement Makers
These varieties are born show-offs. They’re guaranteed to draw the eye and start conversations, so if you’re after a plant with serious visual impact, this is where you should start.
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Calathea orbifolia (Goeppertia orbifolia): A true icon, the Orbifolia is adored for its huge, round leaves marked with silvery-green stripes. Its generous foliage creates a lush, full look, making it a spectacular floor plant or a dramatic centrepiece. It loves consistent moisture and high humidity to keep those magnificent leaves looking their best. If this beauty catches your eye, check out our guide on Calathea Orbifolia care for more detailed tips.
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Calathea makoyana (Goeppertia makoyana): Commonly known as the Peacock Plant, and for good reason—its leaves are a masterpiece. The foliage is light green with a delicate, feather-like pattern of dark green, which is mirrored on the underside in shades of purple and cream. It’s like having two different plants in one as the leaves perform their daily dance.
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Calathea ‘Dottie’: For anyone who loves a bit of drama, 'Dottie' is hard to beat. Its leaves are a deep, almost black, purple-green, painted with a hot-pink feathered line around the edge and a splash down the centre. It’s a moody, high-contrast plant that looks its best in medium indirect light.
The Textured Wonders
If you’re someone who appreciates plants that engage more than just your eyes, these textured varieties offer a totally unique tactile experience. Their foliage adds real depth and complexity to any plant collection.
Did you know? Calathea cultivation is big in New Zealand, with local growers propagating over 45,000 mature plants annually by 2026. Jungle Story's data shows that 62% of our Calathea, including favourites like the Peacock Plant, come from certified Kiwi growers in regions like Waikato and Bay of Plenty. These locally grown plants have a remarkable 95% survival rate after shipping, a huge plus for home gardeners.
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Calathea lancifolia (Goeppertia insignis): Nicknamed the Rattlesnake Plant, its long, wavy-edged leaves have a striking pattern of dark green ovals on a bright green background. The undersides are a rich purple, adding a surprise flash of colour as the leaves move throughout the day. It’s one of the more forgiving Calathea species, which makes it a great starting point for the genus.
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Calathea rufibarba (Goeppertia rufibarba): The 'Furry Feather' or 'Velvet' Calathea absolutely lives up to its name. Its long, spear-shaped leaves are covered in fine, soft hairs that give them a velvety feel. The tops are a solid green, while the undersides and stems are a deep burgundy, creating a beautiful contrast. This is one of those plants that just begs to be touched.
The Painted Beauties
These varieties look as though an artist has meticulously painted them, with fine lines and delicate brushstrokes creating incredibly intricate designs.
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Calathea ornata (Goeppertia ornata): The Pinstripe Calathea is elegance personified. Its dark green leaves are marked with thin, perfect pink or white stripes that look like they were drawn on with a fine-tipped pen. As the plant gets older, these pinstripes often soften to a creamy white, but that striking pattern remains.
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Calathea 'White Fusion': A true collector's item, the White Fusion is a mesmerising show of colour. Each leaf is a unique canvas, splashed and marbled with shades of green, lilac, and brilliant white. It's without a doubt one of the most stunning Calathea out there, but it is also one of the most demanding. It needs very high humidity and careful watering to stop the leaves from browning.
Mastering Light, Water, And Humidity In a Kiwi Home
To get your Calathea to really thrive, it helps to think like a rainforest. These plants evolved under the dappled light of a dense jungle canopy, surrounded by consistent moisture and balmy air. Recreating these three pillars—light, water, and humidity—in your New Zealand home is the secret to unlocking their stunning potential.
Nailing this balance will keep common issues like crispy leaves at bay and ensure your plant’s intricate patterns stay vibrant all year round. Let's break down how to translate the needs of the jungle into practical steps for your Kiwi home.
How Should I Water My Calathea?
Watering is often where new Calathea owners stumble. While they have a reputation for being particular, their needs are quite straightforward: they like their soil to stay consistently moist but never soggy or waterlogged.
Think of a well-wrung-out sponge—that's the texture you're aiming for. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil every few days, watering only when the top couple of centimetres feel dry to the touch. Remember that factors like your room's temperature, the amount of light, and the pot size will all change how quickly the soil dries out.
It's a classic mistake to overwater at the first sign of a crispy leaf. Always check the soil first! If it's already wet, the issue is more likely with your humidity levels or water quality, not a lack of moisture.
It’s not just how often you water, but also what you use. Calatheas are sensitive to the chlorine, fluoride, and other minerals often present in tap water. Over time, these can build up in the soil and cause those tell-tale brown, crispy leaf tips.
For healthier foliage, try one of these watering methods:
- Rainwater: This is the best option—it's naturally soft and completely free. Just keep a bucket outside to collect it.
- Filtered Water: A standard water filter jug can effectively remove many of the chemicals that Calatheas dislike.
- Aged Tap Water: If you have to use tap water, let it sit in an open container for at least 24 hours. This allows some of the chlorine to evaporate before you use it.
When you do water, make sure you're thorough. Take the plant to a sink and let room-temperature water run through the pot until it drains freely from the bottom. This process ensures the entire root ball gets a drink and helps flush out any mineral build-up.
How Much Light Does a Calathea Need?
Your Calathea's incredible leaf patterns are a direct result of its life on the dim rainforest floor. In your home, this translates to a need for bright, but strictly indirect, light. Direct sunlight, especially the harsh Kiwi sun, will quickly scorch its delicate leaves, causing the colours to fade and brown spots or curled edges to appear.
A good test is to find a spot that’s bright enough to read a book in comfortably without needing to turn a lamp on.
- An east-facing window, with its gentle morning sun, is often a perfect spot.
- A north-facing window will give you consistent, indirect light all day long.
- If you only have a west- or south-facing window, place the plant a couple of metres back, or hang a sheer curtain to diffuse the intense afternoon rays.
Because they are well-adapted to lower light, Calatheas are a fantastic option for brightening up corners where other plants might not survive. If you're looking for more inspiration, take a look at our guide on other great low-light houseplants for your home.
How Do I Increase Humidity for My Calathea?
Low humidity is the number one culprit behind crispy, brown leaf edges on a Calathea. Hailing from tropical jungles where humidity can easily top 90%, they find the dry air of our heated or air-conditioned homes a real challenge, especially during the New Zealand winter. If you can aim for a humidity level of 50-60% around your plant, you'll see a massive difference.
Here are a few simple ways to create a more humid microclimate:
- Group Your Plants: Plants release moisture through transpiration, so clustering them together lets them share the ambient humidity.
- Use a Pebble Tray: Sit your plant's pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it will raise the humidity right where your plant needs it. Just make sure the pot isn't sitting directly in the water.
- Move It to the Bathroom: A bright bathroom can be a Calathea's paradise, offering plenty of natural warmth and steam.
- Invest in a Humidifier: This is the most effective method for maintaining consistent humidity. For maintaining ideal levels, especially in dry rooms, a humidifier can be invaluable. When you're looking for one, it helps to know about things like coverage area and upkeep, similar to when seeking advice on choosing a suitable humidifier for other specific household needs.
What Is the Best Soil and Fertiliser for a Calathea?
A happy Calathea starts with the right foundation. These plants need a potting mix that holds moisture well but doesn't become a swamp. A high-quality, free-draining indoor plant mix is a great start. For a custom blend, you can amend a standard mix with orchid bark to improve aeration and some peat moss or coco coir to help retain moisture.
When it comes to feeding, timing is key, particularly with our Southern Hemisphere seasons. Calatheas slow their growth and enter a dormancy period during the cooler, darker months of the year.
Seasonal Feeding Schedule:
- Spring & Summer (September - February): This is the active growing season. Feed your Calathea every 2-4 weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser, diluted to half-strength to avoid burning its sensitive roots.
- Autumn & Winter (March - August): As growth slows right down, reduce feeding to just once every 6-8 weeks, or stop altogether. The plant is resting, and excess fertiliser can do more harm than good.
How to Troubleshoot Common Calathea Problems
Even the most attentive plant parent might see their Calathea looking a bit unhappy from time to time. Don't panic. These plants are incredibly expressive, and learning to read their leaves is the real secret to keeping them in top form.
Most issues trace back to a simple imbalance in their care routine—usually water, light, or humidity. By spotting the signs early, you can figure out what your plant needs and get it back to its beautiful self before a small problem becomes a big one.
Diagnosing Common Leaf Issues
Crispy brown edges, yellowing leaves, and curling are the usual culprits when a Calathea owner is worried. While it can be a bit alarming to see, these are almost always signs of a very fixable issue.
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Crispy Brown Edges or Tips: This is the number one signal we see, and it almost always points to a lack of humidity. Our homes, especially during the cooler Kiwi months from March to August when the heating is on, are often far too dry for these tropical beauties. Inconsistent watering or using tap water high in minerals can also cause this.
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Yellowing Leaves (Especially Lower Ones): Overwatering is the most likely cause here. When the soil stays soggy for too long, the roots can't get any air, which can lead to root rot and yellow foliage. It’s absolutely crucial to let the top few centimetres of soil dry out between drinks.
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Curling Leaves: This is a Calathea's most dramatic way of saying, "I'm thirsty!" When the plant doesn't have enough water, its leaves will curl inwards to conserve every last drop of moisture. This is an urgent call for a thorough watering.
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Fading Leaf Patterns: If your Calathea’s incredible patterns start to look dull or washed out, it’s probably getting too much direct sunlight. The harsh rays are essentially bleaching its delicate leaves.
To make things even easier, we've put together a quick reference guide to decode what your Calathea is trying to tell you.
Calathea Leaf Symptom Decoder
This table is your go-to for quickly diagnosing common Calathea issues based on what their leaves are doing.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Recommended Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Crispy Brown Edges | Low humidity or water quality issues. | Increase humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier. Switch to filtered or rainwater. |
| Yellowing Leaves | Overwatering; soil is too wet. | Reduce watering frequency. Ensure the pot has drainage and is not sitting in water. |
| Curling Leaves | Underwatering; soil is completely dry. | Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom. Check soil moisture more often. |
| Drooping Stems | Either underwatering or severe overwatering. | Check the soil. If dry, water it. If soggy, let it dry out and check for root rot. |
| Faded Patterns | Too much direct sunlight. | Move the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light, away from the sun's direct rays. |
By matching the symptoms to the cause, you can take the guesswork out of troubleshooting and give your plant exactly what it needs to recover.
Tackling Common Calathea Pests
While a healthy, happy Calathea is pretty good at fending for itself, it can sometimes attract a few unwanted guests. The key is always to catch them early. The two pests you're most likely to run into in New Zealand are spider mites and fungus gnats.
Spider Mites: These tiny pests absolutely love the dry, warm conditions that Calatheas hate. You’ll usually spot them by the fine, wispy webbing on the undersides of leaves or where the leaves meet the stem. They feed by sucking sap from the plant, which leaves behind a pattern of tiny yellow or white speckles on the foliage.
Your best defence against spider mites is simply to make their environment hostile. Boost the humidity around your plant, as they can't stand moist conditions. You can also wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth or spray them with a neem oil solution, which is a great eco-friendly option you can find at most garden centres.
Fungus Gnats: These little black flies are more of an annoyance to you than a direct danger to your plant. They're drawn to soil that stays constantly damp, as it's the perfect place to lay their eggs. The real issue is the larvae, which hatch in the soil and can start to munch on your Calathea's delicate roots if their numbers get out of control.
To get rid of them, you have a few options:
- Let the soil dry out: Allowing the top few centimetres of soil to dry completely between waterings makes it an unsuitable home for their larvae.
- Use sticky traps: Yellow sticky traps are surprisingly effective at catching the adult flies, which helps break their life cycle.
- Try bottom watering: Watering from a saucer below keeps the top layer of soil much drier, preventing them from settling in in the first place.
By keeping a close eye on your Calathea's leaves and soil, you can catch and treat these common problems quickly, ensuring your prayer plant stays healthy and vibrant.
Repotting and Propagating Your Calathea
A happy Calathea is a growing Calathea, and sooner or later, it'll need a bigger pot to call home. Don’t be put off by the idea of repotting; it's a simple way to give your plant fresh soil and the space its roots need to stretch out.
At the same time, you can also propagate your plant. It’s a great way to expand your own collection or share your favourite plant with a friend.
Think of it as moving your plant into a slightly bigger house just as it’s about to have a growth spurt. The best time to tackle this is right at the start of the growing season, which for us in New Zealand is early spring (September). This gives your Calathea plenty of time to get comfortable before growth slows down for winter.
Knowing When to Repot
Your Calathea will give you some pretty obvious hints when it's feeling cramped and needs an upgrade. If you've just brought a new plant home, let it settle in and acclimatise for a few months before you even think about repotting it.
Keep an eye out for these tell-tale signs:
- Visible Roots: Roots creeping out of the pot's drainage holes are the clearest sign that it’s run out of room.
- Slowed Growth: If your plant seems to have stalled and isn't putting out new leaves during spring or summer, it might be root-bound.
- Watering Issues: Is water running straight through the pot, or does the soil dry out in a flash? The pot is likely more roots than soil at this point.
When picking a new pot, just go up one size—that’s about 2-4 cm wider in diameter. A pot that's too big holds excess moisture, which can easily lead to root rot. For the best results, use a quality potting mix. We cover how to pick the right one in our guide to choosing the perfect indoor potting mix.
How to Propagate Your Calathea by Division
Unlike a lot of other houseplants, Calatheas can’t be grown from a leaf or stem cutting. The only way to make more is through division—carefully separating the plant at its roots. The perfect time to do this is when you’re already repotting.
Here’s how to divide your Calathea with confidence:
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Remove the Plant: Gently slide the entire plant out of its pot. If it's a plastic nursery pot, a good squeeze around the sides will help loosen it.
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Inspect the Root Ball: Lightly brush away the soil to get a good look at the roots. You’ll notice natural clumps, each with its own stems and root system. These are your future plants.
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Carefully Separate: Use your hands to gently tease these sections apart. If the roots are really tangled, you can use a clean, sharp knife to make a clean cut. Just make sure every new division has a healthy amount of roots and at least a few leaves attached.
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Pot Up the Divisions: Plant each new clump in its own pot with fresh, well-draining soil and give it a light watering.
Don't be alarmed if your new divisions look a little sad at first. They'll experience some transplant shock. Just keep them in a warm, humid spot with indirect light for a few weeks while they recover and grow new roots.
Styling With Calathea and Finding Your Plant
Beyond their specific needs, Calatheas are living works of art. Their vibrant patterns and dancing leaves bring so much life to a space, turning an empty corner into something truly special. When you start thinking about where to put them, you’re not just decorating – you’re creating the perfect home for your plant to flourish.
This is where the fun really begins. Marrying your knowledge of Calathea care with your own personal style is the key to creating a stunning display that thrives.
Creating Your Indoor Jungle
One of the best ways to show off a Calathea is by grouping it with other plants to create a 'jungle corner'. The different textures, colours, and heights all work together to build a rich, layered look that feels lush and alive.
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Lush Living Room Corner: Try pairing a tall, slender Calathea like a 'Furry Feather' (Goeppertia rufibarba) with the big, bold leaves of an Orbifolia. Placed near a north-facing window, they’ll create a beautiful focal point that catches that gentle, filtered light they love.
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Humidity-Loving Bathroom Oasis: The bathroom is a natural paradise for Calatheas. The warmth and steam mimic their native jungle floor. A Peacock Plant (Goeppertia makoyana) on the vanity or a Pinstripe Calathea (Goeppertia ornata) on a shelf will absolutely soak up that ambient moisture, which helps keep their leaves green and stops those dreaded crispy edges.
Choosing the right pot is just as important as choosing the right place. A great pot can tie the whole look together, complementing your plant’s foliage and your room's colour scheme. We love textured ceramics for a modern feel, or a simple woven basket for a more relaxed, bohemian vibe.
Find Your Next Calathea at Jungle Story
Feeling inspired? Whether you’re ready for your first Calathea or hunting for your next one, Jungle Story is the place to look. We’re a dedicated online marketplace that connects you with New Zealand's best local growers, giving you access to an amazing range of healthy, high-quality plants.
You can find everything from rare beauties like the 'White Fusion' to timeless classics like the Rattlesnake Plant. Our platform also makes it easy to discover stylish pots and unique gifts, including stunning kokedama arrangements.
Shopping with us means you get a few key things:
- Access to Trusted NZ Sellers: We’ve partnered with the country's best, so you know every plant is healthy and ready for its new home.
- Rare and Unique Varieties: We have plants you simply won’t find in your average garden centre.
- Secure Nationwide Delivery: We’ll get your new plant delivered safely to your door, anywhere in New Zealand.
From striking foliage to that perfect pot, we have everything you need to start building your own indoor jungle. Take a look at the full Calathea collection on Jungle Story and find the perfect plant for your space today.
Frequently Asked Questions About Calathea
As you get to know your Calathea, a few questions are bound to pop up. Let’s tackle some of the most common ones so you can help your new plant feel right at home.
Are Calathea Plants Safe for Pets?
Yes, they are. One of the best qualities of the entire Calathea family is that they’re non-toxic to cats and dogs. This makes them a fantastic choice for pet owners across New Zealand who want to fill their space with stunning foliage without the worry.
That peace of mind is a big reason why Calatheas have become such a beloved houseplant.
Why Do My Calathea's Leaves Move Up and Down?
That incredible movement is a natural behaviour called nyctinasty. Calatheas raise their leaves toward the sky at night and lower them again during the day, following the rhythm of the light. It’s what earned them the ‘prayer plant’ nickname.
This is a perfectly normal and healthy sign that your plant is alive and responding to its environment.
This daily dance is controlled by a special joint at the base of each leaf stem, known as a pulvinus. It works like a tiny hydraulic hinge, changing its internal water pressure to lift and lower the leaves.
Is It Better to Water My Calathea from the Top or Bottom?
Honestly, both methods work just fine. The most important thing is to be consistent and avoid letting the pot sit in water.
- Top watering is the classic approach. Just pour water evenly over the soil until it starts to run out of the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root system gets a good soak.
- Bottom watering is great for encouraging deep, strong roots and can help keep fungus gnats at bay. Simply sit the pot in a saucer of water for about 20-30 minutes and let the soil draw up the moisture it needs.
No matter which way you go, always tip out any excess water from the saucer afterwards. Soggy soil is the fastest way to cause root rot.
Ready to find the perfect Calathea for your home? Explore the full collection from New Zealand's top local growers at Jungle Story. Find your next plant here.